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Shaoxing, City of Boats and Books
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Home to Lu Xun, mainland China's greatest modern
writer
From social reformers like Lu Xun to wistful poets sipping Shaoxing's
famed wine on the banks of a lazy stream as they compose lyrical dances,
Shaoxing's history is that of China's cultural heritage.
Just 70 kilometers from Hangzhou, Shaoxing is sheltered by Kuaiji Shan
and nestled in Zhejiang province's rich Yangtze-fed waterways. The architectural
style and atmosphere is typical Jiangnan, which means south of the Yangtze.
White walls punctuated with black tiles line narrow cobbled streets and
when harried city dwellers dream of an idyllic paradise and plan their
retirement, they often picture Shaoxing. But more than a quiet city, Shaoxing
is also home to many of China's most renowned scholars, writers and poets.
The city draws learned tourists seeking a glimpse of China's rich cultural
past.
No city in China can claim to be the hometown of as many nationally known
personalities as Shaoxing. Yu the Great (dà yǔ 大禹) was one of China's
mythical early chiefs, whose reputation and reverence is on par with England's
King Arthur. He's credited with teaching the Chinese people how to tame
the rivers and control floods. His son followed his father's footsteps
by founding the first Chinese dynasty in 2205 BC. Yu the Great's tomb
lies in Shaoxing where visitors still come to pay their respects and the
former Ming governor of Shaoxing wrote the memorial tablet at his tomb.
During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), a representative of the empire would
come and perform ceremonial rituals in his honor.
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Orchid Pavilion (lán tíng兰亭) is 12.5 kilometers
southwest of Shaoxing at the foot of Lanzhu Mountain. It's the site of
China's most famous drinking party and spawned a drinking game that inspired
men of letters all over China. In the 4th century AD, Wang Xizhi, a renowned
calligrapher organized a party at Orchid Pavilion. Since poets tend to
be romantic souls, they found various ways to entertain themselves in
style. Wang Xizhi devised a literary game where the poets would sit on
the banks of a small stream then float a small cup filled with wine downstream.
Whomever the cup stopped in front, that poet had to compose a poem or
drink the wine as a penalty. A mixture of good wine and tranquil scenery
inspired 37 poems that day. Wang Xizhi compiled the poems into an anthology
and wrote its preface, which became the Lanting Preface to the Orchid
Pavilion (lán tíng jíxù 兰亭集序).
Today Orchid Pavilion is a pilgrimage site for those who daydream of holding
their own drinking party. The Goose Pool (é chí 鹅池) is a major sight at
Orchid Pavilion, and so is the stream where the poets played their game.
Wang Xizhi's Memorial Temple (wáng yòu jūn cí 王右军祠) is also at this site.
One of the pavilions features a memorial tablet written by an emperor
in his honor. The Langting Calligraphy Museum (lán tíng shūfǎ bówùguǎn
兰亭书法博物馆) is a good place to check out Wang Xizhi's flowing calligraphic
style.
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